Let’s be honest, your timepiece collection is incomplete without a Rolex. The Swiss luxury watch manufacture has been a mainstay in haute horlogerie since its inception in London at the turn of the 20th Century. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf opted to take the business to the home of fine watchmaking in Geneva, Switzerland, where Rolex would cement itself as the ultimate symbol of precision, craftsmanship, and timeless style.
Over the decades, Rolex has become synonymous with success and ambition (if you can get your hands on one); a veritable favourite brand with important pop culture references, in addition to being seen on the wrists of Hollywood legends and world leaders to deep-sea divers and explorers.
Whether it’s the iconic Submariner, the elegant Datejust, or the trailblazing GMT-Master II, there’s a Rolex watch for everyone. They’re not just tools for telling time, but emblematic of an individual’s achievement and status. The prices may change with each horological year, but Rolex’s inherent appeal is notably timeless.
In this Rolex Submariner story
Features of the 2024 Rolex Submariner
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Price | $8,100 USD (~$12,750 AUD) for Ref. 124060 (no-date) |
| Case Diameter | 41mm |
| Materials | Oystersteel (904L stainless steel) |
| Functions | Time, running seconds (No date function on 124060) |
| Dial Options | Black |
| Bezel | Unidirectional rotating bezel with black Cerachrom insert |
| Movement | Rolex Calibre 3230 (no-date, 70-hour power reserve) |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres / 1,000 feet |
| Bracelet | Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock extension system |
Origins Of The Rolex Submariner
The Submariner is a true classic among luxury wristwatches, revered not only as a sports watch but also as an elegant personal accessory for the discerning gentleman. It’s no surprise it’s still among the most popular watch models in Australia.
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The first Rolex Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Swiss Watch Fair. At the time, Rolex director Rene-Paul Jeanerret was instrumental in bringing the brand’s first dedicated tool watch to the horological market, positioning the Submariner as an essential part of a man’s wardrobe.
Tool-watches were specialised timepieces specifically engineered for individual tasks, and designed to withstand even the most difficult conditions. The Submariner was one of the first watches specifically designed with the unique needs of the deep sea diver in mind.
“Over the years, the Submariner has benefited from innovations developed by Rolex, making it a timeless benchmark for divers’ watches.”
Before the Submariner was released to the public, an early version was put to the test in 1953. Auguste Piccard and his son Jacques attempted a world diving record while wearing Submariner prototypes. They claimed the record, and the Submariner survived the adventure 10,335’ below the ocean’s surface.
While the watch rose to fame for its ground-breaking functionality, it soon became even more famous for the sporty good looks that make it beloved by mavericks of land and sea alike.
Over the years, Rolex has made only a few changes to the Submariner’s classic style. Innovations over the course of the watch’s 50+ year history include a helium escape valve, a 31-jewel movement, Superluminova hour markers, and an even greater depth rating of 300 metres. Although this iconic piece of horology has worn many faces since its initial release, the Rolex Submariner continues to be one of the most recognisable timepieces on the planet.
The Submariner In Popular Culture
The list of famous names associated with the Submariner is endless. James Bond, Sean Connery, Steve McQueen and the British Royal Navy, to name a few.
Thor Heyerdahl, Norwegian ethnographer and adventurer, wore a Rolex Submariner during his famous 1970 sea expedition that proved ancient mariners could have crossed the Atlantic using the Canary Current. Jacques Cousteau – celebrated filmmaker, explorer, inventor, and author – also sported a Submariner, and may even have had a hand in its development.
Iconic Rolex Submariner Design
As the name suggests, the Submariner was conceived to venture through the greatest seas. To accomplish this task effectively, Rolex employed 904L stainless steel for the casing to prevent saltwater corrosion. This appointment comes with zero compromises as 904L steel is commonly found in aerospace and chemical industry applications where extreme resistance to corrosion is required.
Another defining characteristic of the Submariner’s 904L steel is its highly polishable finish, allowing the watch to retain its fine aesthetic appeal even in the harshest environments.
“I was wearing a Submariner the first time I saw the Titanic for real through the porthole of a submersible, and I was wearing the same watch in my black tie when I went up on the stage to get the Oscar for directing Titanic.”
James Cameron
Design also extends to the steel bracelet which ensures that the watch can withstand the rigours of diving. An Oysterlock clasp prevents accidental opening during physical activities whilst an intuitive Glidelock system on the bracelet allows for fine-fitting adjustments on the go without the need for tools.
The Submariner bezel is another special design feature that distinguishes the iconic timepiece from others in the diving space. A closer look at the watch will reveal the finer details with 60-minute graduations engraved into the bezel to allow the diver to accurately monitor diving time and decompression stops. The bezel itself is made of corrosion-resistant ceramic to make it virtually scratchproof and given a knurled finish for optimal grip under the water.
A Timeless Movement
Looking beyond the external design elements of the Submariner will reveal an equally impressive movement in the form of a self-winding calibre 3135 developed entirely in-house at Rolex.
It follows the same stringent criteria of all Rolex perpetual movements which have been certified as Swiss chronometer pieces by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). To further aid in its rigorous exploits, Rolex has fitted the Submariner with a Parachrom hairspring to offer greater resistance to shocks and to temperature variations. Power reserve meanwhile is a sufficient 48-hours – more than enough to accompany a wearer’s short diving stint at sea.
This special movement affords the watch an hours, minutes and seconds function with a date window model forming part of the spin-off Submariner Date model.
Variations On A Theme
Two distinct models of the Submariner exist in the Rolex portfolio. The Submariner and Submariner Date both follow the stringent design aesthetics that have made it one of the most recognised and iconic diving watches to date.
The original Submariner comes only in the aforementioned 40mm steel with a black Cerachrom bezel along with an hours, minutes and seconds function. The Submariner Date takes this fundamental design and adds a date window along with a plethora of colours and material finishes for the most discerning watch aficionado.
Where To Buy A Rolex Submariner
Besides the Rolex store, other secondary Rolex retailers also deal with pre-owned samples of the Submariner line. These are the places you should look for in Australia, the United States and online.
Rolex Submariner (1953) Ref. 6204
The first Rolex Submariner (Ref. 6204) was launched in 1953 and marked a pivotal shift in the horological market that looked at luxury timepieces as essential tools to use, as well as to wear. The 6204 was pioneered by the brand’s director Rene-Paul Jeanerret who wanted to design a Rolex specifically used for underwater exploration.
The first release boasted a water resistance of 100 metres – around 330 feet – which was a groundbreaking achievement in the early 1950s. Rolex worked closely with French company COMEX to ensure its durability and usability underwater
Presented in a robust 37mm stainless steel case, Rolex’s first midcentury release was slightly smaller than today’s larger sensibilities but still managed to withstand the extreme conditions experienced by underwater divers whilst at sea. Key features included a bidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings, which allowed divers to track their immersion time with the utmost precision – a vital tool still used today.
Take a look at the dial, and you’ll notice that the 6204’s minimalist design has excluded the “Submariner” moniker that has become so iconic today. Initially, Rolex was still in the process of finalising its branding for this pioneering model and so opted to go without during this first release. This timepiece didn’t just define Rolex’s dive watch legacy but influenced the design of virtually every dive watch that followed – Submariner has adorned every release since.
Rolex Submariner No Date (2020) Ref. 124060
Released in 2020, the Rolex Submariner (Ref. 124060) represents the modern evolution of Rolex’s most iconic dive watch. As the direct descendant of the original 1953 Submariner (Ref. 6204), the 124060 continues to uphold Rolex’s legacy of precision, durability, and timeless design while incorporating cutting-edge technology and subtle refinements.
For the first time, the Submariner’s case size was increased to 41mm (up from the previous 40mm), offering a slightly larger presence on the wrist without sacrificing comfort. It’s a significant jump on the 1953 original’s 37mm diameter, but reflects the changing preferences of modern horologists and collectors. Made from Rolex’s proprietary 904L Oystersteel, today’s release builds on the enduring legacy of the original Submariner, introducing incredibly durable, corrosion-resistant materials that allow this Sub to withstand the immense pressures of diving.
The watch’s Cerachrom bezel displays a 60-minute scale that allows divers to accurately time their underwater sessions, similar to the original piece, whilst its robust Triplock screw-down crown and the iconic Oyster case offer a water resistance of 300 metres (1,000 feet). A staggering leap from 100 metres – not that you’d go that deep.
As the most current iteration of the no-date Submariner, the 124060 combines over 70 years of Submariner history with contemporary watchmaking advancements. It remains an essential addition to any collection.
The Rolex Submariner (2010) Ref. 116610LV
Submariner, Smash! We all know that Rolex fans love applying unofficial monikers to their favourite releases. To be honest, I think Rolex quite like it as well. It’s easier to remember “Batman”, “Bruce Wayne” and “Kermit” than the collection of numbers and letters that make up the reference. The Rolex Submariner (Ref. 116610LV) is one such piece that has earned a clever nickname: “The Hulk”. Of course, this is due to its bold green dial and matching green Cerachrom bezel, which at the time, marked a significant departure from traditional Submariner aesthetics.
With a 40mm stainless steel case, the Hulk’s thicker lugs and crown guards gave it a more muscular, contemporary look. Combine that with this piece’s COSC-certified Calibre 3135, a true workhorse movement renowned for its durability and precision, and its iconic vivid sunburst green dial and matching bezel, you can see how it got its name.
With a 300-metre (1,000 feet) depth rating, the Hulk retained the Submariner’s professional dive watch capabilities but was unfortunately discontinued in 2020 (which only added to this piece’s desirability).
The Rolex Submariner (1987) Ref. 168000
Often referred to as “Triple Zero”, and even the transitional Submariner, the Ref. 168000 only lasted a short time in Rolex’s long history between 1987 and 1988, bridging the gap between the 16800 and the later 16610.
However its legacy within the world of Submariners cannot be overstated; it was the first Submariner to use the brand’s patented 904L stainless steel, which is still used on Submariners of today. It was highly resistance to corrosion, especially in saltwater environments, making it the perfect evolution of this quintessential divers watch, if only on the shelves of the Rolex boutique for a short period of time.
It maintained the classic Submariner proportions of the time with a 40mm diameter case, and its black dial and aluminium bezel insert were an attractive combination for collectors at the time – although Rolex hadn’t yet introduced the unidirectional standard.
The Rolex Submariner (2008) Ref. 116619LB
First introduced in 2008, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 116619LB was affectionately nicknamed “The Smurf” thanks to its glossy blue dial and matching Cerachrom bezel which created a vibrant contrast with the 18kt white gold – the first time Rolex had crafted a Submariner with this precious metal.
While it may appear steel-like at a fleeting glance, this piece exuded an unmistakable luxury and quickly became a favourite for Rolex fans and collectors alike. It’s no wonder it’s one of the most important Submariners produced.
Under the hood, the 116619LB had the same inner workings as its predecessors: a highly reliable automatic movement called Calibre 3135 which boasted a two-day reserve and had an enhanced resistance to shocks and temperature fluctuations – essential for any underwater excursion.
The Ref. 116619LB was also discontinued in 2020, joining the Hulk as one of the most distinctive and luxurious Submariners ever created.
