Rolex Submariner Buyers Guide: Everything You Need To Know

The world's first dive watch.

Rolex Submariner

Image: DMARGE/Rolex

Let’s be honest, your timepiece collection is incomplete without a Rolex. The Swiss luxury watch manufacture has been a mainstay in haute horlogerie since its inception in London at the turn of the 20th Century. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf opted to take the business to the home of fine watchmaking in Geneva, Switzerland, where Rolex would cement itself as the ultimate symbol of precision, craftsmanship, and timeless style.

Over the decades, Rolex has become synonymous with success and ambition (if you can get your hands on one); a veritable favourite brand with important pop culture references, in addition to being seen on the wrists of Hollywood legends and world leaders to deep-sea divers and explorers.

Whether it’s the iconic Submariner, the elegant Datejust, or the trailblazing GMT-Master II, there’s a Rolex watch for everyone. They’re not just tools for telling time, but emblematic of an individual’s achievement and status. The prices may change with each horological year, but Rolex’s inherent appeal is notably timeless.

Features of the 2024 Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner No Date (2020) Ref. 124060. Image: Rolex
SpecificationDetails
Price$8,100 USD (~$12,750 AUD) for Ref. 124060 (no-date)
Case Diameter41mm
MaterialsOystersteel (904L stainless steel)
FunctionsTime, running seconds (No date function on 124060)
Dial OptionsBlack
BezelUnidirectional rotating bezel with black Cerachrom insert
MovementRolex Calibre 3230 (no-date, 70-hour power reserve)
Water Resistance300 metres / 1,000 feet
BraceletOyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock extension system

Origins Of The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is a true classic among luxury wristwatches, revered not only as a sports watch but also as an elegant personal accessory for the discerning gentleman. It’s no surprise it’s still among the most popular watch models in Australia.

Related Stories

The first Rolex Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Swiss Watch Fair. At the time, Rolex director Rene-Paul Jeanerret was instrumental in bringing the brand’s first dedicated tool watch to the horological market, positioning the Submariner as an essential part of a man’s wardrobe.

Tool-watches were specialised timepieces specifically engineered for individual tasks, and designed to withstand even the most difficult conditions. The Submariner was one of the first watches specifically designed with the unique needs of the deep sea diver in mind.

“Over the years, the Submariner has benefited from innovations developed by Rolex, making it a timeless benchmark for divers’ watches.”

Before the Submariner was released to the public, an early version was put to the test in 1953. Auguste Piccard and his son Jacques attempted a world diving record while wearing Submariner prototypes. They claimed the record, and the Submariner survived the adventure 10,335’ below the ocean’s surface.

While the watch rose to fame for its ground-breaking functionality, it soon became even more famous for the sporty good looks that make it beloved by mavericks of land and sea alike.

Over the years, Rolex has made only a few changes to the Submariner’s classic style. Innovations over the course of the watch’s 50+ year history include a helium escape valve, a 31-jewel movement, Superluminova hour markers, and an even greater depth rating of 300 metres. Although this iconic piece of horology has worn many faces since its initial release, the Rolex Submariner continues to be one of the most recognisable timepieces on the planet.

The list of famous names associated with the Submariner is endless. James Bond, Sean Connery, Steve McQueen and the British Royal Navy, to name a few.

Thor Heyerdahl, Norwegian ethnographer and adventurer, wore a Rolex Submariner during his famous 1970 sea expedition that proved ancient mariners could have crossed the Atlantic using the Canary Current. Jacques Cousteau – celebrated filmmaker, explorer, inventor, and author – also sported a Submariner, and may even have had a hand in its development.

Iconic Rolex Submariner Design

As the name suggests, the Submariner was conceived to venture through the greatest seas. To accomplish this task effectively, Rolex employed 904L stainless steel for the casing to prevent saltwater corrosion. This appointment comes with zero compromises as 904L steel is commonly found in aerospace and chemical industry applications where extreme resistance to corrosion is required.

Another defining characteristic of the Submariner’s 904L steel is its highly polishable finish, allowing the watch to retain its fine aesthetic appeal even in the harshest environments.

“I was wearing a Submariner the first time I saw the Titanic for real through the porthole of a submersible, and I was wearing the same watch in my black tie when I went up on the stage to get the Oscar for directing Titanic.”

James Cameron

Design also extends to the steel bracelet which ensures that the watch can withstand the rigours of diving. An Oysterlock clasp prevents accidental opening during physical activities whilst an intuitive Glidelock system on the bracelet allows for fine-fitting adjustments on the go without the need for tools.

The Submariner bezel is another special design feature that distinguishes the iconic timepiece from others in the diving space. A closer look at the watch will reveal the finer details with 60-minute graduations engraved into the bezel to allow the diver to accurately monitor diving time and decompression stops. The bezel itself is made of corrosion-resistant ceramic to make it virtually scratchproof and given a knurled finish for optimal grip under the water.

A Timeless Movement

Looking beyond the external design elements of the Submariner will reveal an equally impressive movement in the form of a self-winding calibre 3135 developed entirely in-house at Rolex.

It follows the same stringent criteria of all Rolex perpetual movements which have been certified as Swiss chronometer pieces by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). To further aid in its rigorous exploits, Rolex has fitted the Submariner with a Parachrom hairspring to offer greater resistance to shocks and to temperature variations. Power reserve meanwhile is a sufficient 48-hours – more than enough to accompany a wearer’s short diving stint at sea.

This special movement affords the watch an hours, minutes and seconds function with a date window model forming part of the spin-off Submariner Date model.

Variations On A Theme

Two distinct models of the Submariner exist in the Rolex portfolio. The Submariner and Submariner Date both follow the stringent design aesthetics that have made it one of the most recognised and iconic diving watches to date.

The original Submariner comes only in the aforementioned 40mm steel with a black Cerachrom bezel along with an hours, minutes and seconds function. The Submariner Date takes this fundamental design and adds a date window along with a plethora of colours and material finishes for the most discerning watch aficionado.

Where To Buy A Rolex Submariner

Besides the Rolex store, other secondary Rolex retailers also deal with pre-owned samples of the Submariner line. These are the places you should look for in Australia, the United States and online.

loader